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Shibdon Hall was Heavenly

  • Writer: Michelle Sisson
    Michelle Sisson
  • Jun 10
  • 5 min read
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My first morning in Huddersfield was lovely. Shelly brought me some tea in bed, and I wrote before getting ready for the day. I got to eat porridge and talk about my plans for the day. She made sure I knew how to get to the accessible car park at Shibdon Hall (which I could not be more thankful for because the main car park is up a steep hill from the buildings, and my body would not have allowed that).


Shelly is a retired English teacher, and her knowledge of English language, Anne Lister, the Bronte Sisters, Helena Whitbread, and the country in general is unreal. Just eating our breakfast together was like a professional development session. I keep having to pinch myself to make sure I'm not dreaming.


This was my sight while putting on my shoes. How dreamy?!?!


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Off to Halifax! Even though it was less than fifteen miles away, it took around thirty minutes because there are so many hills and blind curves. That's everywhere here and makes for lovely drives.


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I made it to Shibdon Hall and "thought" I remembered Shelly telling me about a closer, second disabled parking lot, so I was driving trying to find it. Well... I found myself on a path that I was OBVIOUSLY not meant to be on, so I had to slowly reverse back to the original disabled spot I found. I was mortified. Once I got out, I made friends with a couple walking the grounds, and I shared with them how I was just one of those annoying Americans.


She looked at me and said, "Darling, there's only one truly annoying American.

We all know who she was talking about, and that is the sentiment of everyone I've met. I was worried people might not want to talk to me because of the dude in charge. Turns out, I've been met with so much compassion. I'm getting teary writing this. And, come to think of it: I have NEVER thought horrible thoughts about the people of Israel because of their "leader." I feel there's an unveiling happening where the citizens of the world are uniting in love for each other and rightfully pointing the finger at power and greed instead of nations as a whole.


This is why travel is the best education.

Shibdon Hall was absolutely stunning. For anyone who does not know about Anne Lister, here's a ridiculously quick summary:


She was born in 1791 and died in 1840. She was an avid diarist (6600 pages of diaries in her lifetime). She had to write in code because she wrote about EVERYTHING during her days (wake and sleep times, bowel movements, business dealings, and intimate relations). She inherited the estate from her uncle because he had no children and Anne's brothers died early. She was wildly ambitious and educated, and much to the dismay of Halifax society, she held her own in her business dealings. She wore black, wore pants, and was a lesbian. She was a pioneer for those of us who have followed.


Ms. Helena Whitbread, an impressive academic, has spent her adult life researching and decoding Lister's diaries. It is because of her that we got Gentleman Jack on Max. That was my first introduction to Anne Lister, and my research leading to this excursion has been fascinating.


Shibdon Hall went through many iterations and owners, but it ended with Lister's family and became a museum in 1934 after John Lister died.


I spent three hours here which is not typical for me. My body does not do well moving for hours at a time, but my heart was so enthralled that stopping or leaving was not an option. Also, it was only the second building on my grant proposal that was open and accessible for me to explore. I'm not sure why I was so emotional here. Maybe it was the societal hardships endured (and this was her only safe space), the rich and dark wood throughout, all the queer folks there visiting (safely and happily), the compassion of visitors allowing me space for me and my toddling body, the impressiveness of it all, or just being in the space where she lived. Maybe it was a mixture of it all. I obviously have not processed it all because I'm having to wipe away tears as I write it.


I took countless pictures there. And, just so you know, taking pictures is not easy for me. I have tremors. Standing still is extremely difficult (I sway, and attempting to keep my balance takes much energy for me). In order to take a picture, I have to balance my phone, my cane, and myself. So, the photo dump you're about to experience is a testament to how captivated I was.



I hope to write a post once I've processed, but I could not do this experience justice if I attempted now.


Next, I was off to her resting place: Halifax Minster. I knew she was buried in the family plot on the south end. The fact there's a family plot at the Minster is a testament to the family's prominence in the town. I looked on the outside because I didn't know if the church would allow a lesbian to be buried inside. Thankfully, I was mistaken. No one knows exactly where her remains are on the grounds because the church has gone through fires, renovations, and additions. But, I got as close as I could!



Time to head home! I was able to take a proper bath! This may sound gross, but it is what it is: the shower, however lovely, at Inga and Malcolm's was not accessible for me. So, until today, I have been taking sponge baths. So, this was beyond amazing for me. I didn't say it was easy, but I was able to do it!!!


Then, I got to sit with Shelly for an hour and hear all about her relationship with Ms. Whitbread. Shelly has written an academic book of her own, edited some of Whitbread's books, and is currently writing the second book of Whitbread's biography. So, my entire time here, breakfast through dinner, is constant information overload (in the best way possible).


Steve made us a lovely curry for dinner, and I was blessed to sit and talk with the both of them before it was time for me to TRY to sleep. Sleep has been elusive for me once the jet lag wore off. I assume it's the constant processing new sights, sounds, information, etc.


Okay, it's time for me to get ready to head to Haworth (pronounced "How-with") and go to the Bronte Sister's Parsonage!


Life could not be more exciting for me right now.


Cheers!

 
 
 

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