Beatrix and Bunnies

June 14th

I started off the rainy morning with a lovely English breakfast. The seating and dining area is situated by the front windows, so I can look out onto the gardens. Before I even poured my coffee, I saw bunnies hopping around. My first ones! And, how fitting to see them an hour for heading out to Hill Top (Beatrix Potter's first farm she bought).

Tracy from New Zealand arrived while I was asleep, so I got to chat with her over breakfast. I was so excited about the bunnies, and it was the first time I've seen Karen so serious. She said, "If only I could catch them..." She does have amazing gardens, so I get it, but they're so cute!

Okay, one thing you must know about driving over here is that everything is much slower (time-wise, not necessarily speed-wise). Roads are smaller, hillier, and windier. And, MANY roads are meant for two horses not cars. Anyway, even if something says it's seven miles away, it could still be twenty - thirty minutes away! Hill Top was no exception. It was twenty-nine miles away from my B&B, GPS says it takes fifty-three minutes. Then, factor in one or two missed turns or reroutes! Good thing it's gorgeous here! Count it all joy!

Once I parked at Hill Top, I was getting everything ready to roll, and a man was suddenly at my window! I made him jump with how startled I was :) He was precious and asked ME if it was okay where he parked. Luckily, I had twelve days under my belt, and I was able to assure him he was just fine.

Guess where he's from! Michigan!?!? I walked with his wife, two daughters, and him up and down the hilly quarter of a mile to the ticket office. They were precious. The wife was sweet and let me hold her arm as we walked down the slick, steep road. They had just arrived from Scotland, and their daughter (college aged) is a huge B. Potter fan. I got to nerd out with her for a while, so we got even more excited as we walked up to the office.

These are the pictures JUST FROM THE WALK AND TICKET OFFICE!

Back up the hill top to the entrance! It was quite busy and a tight squeeze in most places leading up to the house and especially inside. But, one of the things I love about over here, is everyone makes room! On roads. On paths. Everywhere you go! And, especially for disabled people. It's like we're special (in the most lovely way); we don't have to pay parking anywhere, and folks are accommodating and smiling.

Also, I want you all know that it has been my utmost priority to NOT BE an annoying tourist. My incredible female book club did the most lovely blessing for me before I left, and Carol said, "You are our ambassador." I have taken that very seriously. Since traveling abroad IMMEDIATELY puts me in my place as a visitor, I greet everyone with a smile. Not gonna lie, it’s a survival tactic I learned at an early age as a traveler. It isn’t a manipulation tactic or conscience, but it does make everyone I’ve encountered overseas beyond sweet and accommodating. I learned in college that a smile begets smiles from strangers. That’s why I enjoy interacting with strangers (it started with Mom speaking to everyone she met like family, and I’ve honed this skill as an adult)

Having Ataxia in tight spaces make being polite difficult, but I have done my best. Also, I have outgrown making myself small (hallelujah), but I make a conscience effort in crowds at tourist attractions. Plus, I’m typically surrounded by folks from many cultures, so my ambassadorship feels even more important.

There was a LOVELY volunteer in one of my last rooms I entered, and he shared TONS of information. I wish I would have encountered him in the first room, but his knowledge allowed for fresh reflection.

Okay, two things I want you to consider before I take you into the home:

1. Experience this as a life-size doll house.

2. Potter bought this farm in preparation for moving there with her fiancé (her publisher), but he died before they could marry. She was a Victorian daughter, so moving out as an unmarried woman was not an option. So, she stayed the night here a collective of two weeks! She was allowed to leave home for only a week at a time, and this was not her only property she bought. (She was a conservationist first. Her first love was science. She wanted to be a scientist, but patriarchy made that impossible) So, she used her success to combat industrialization in The Lake District by purchasing 40,000 acres across this part of the country. What an amazing woman?!?! Even though she was not allowed to leave her parents’ home, she was determined to follow her heart and save as much of nature as she could. (I’m shedding tears as I write this. She was my favorite new author on this journey – if you couldn’t tell)

Okay, here’s the magic. Enjoy!

It was now time for the garden and farm! The garden was terraced, and the farm is expansive with many hills, but I could not come all this way to not walk her garden! I was resistant to enter the garden for safety reasons, but a dad from Australia saw this and made sure his family gave me assistance (and even offered to capture my joy in a picture) Travel and teaching has taught me that the vast majority of people are good and want to be helpful.

Look at Beatrix Potter’s happy place!

I could have explored the entire farm, but I had to conserve my energy for the rest of my day.

I stopped at the pub in the village of Hill Top, Tower Bank Arms. I had a roast beef and horseradish sandwich and a cider for my journey.

Off to Wordsworth country!

One incredibly important detail to keep in the forefront of your mind: Dorothy Wordsworth was PIVITOL in William Wordsworth’s career. They were siblings and constant companions. She brainstormed with him AND was his editor. So, although he received the fame, she was behind the scenes the whole time. So, as I explored the historical sites touting his name, she resided there, too!

I plugged Rydal Mount (upon reflection I clicked on Rydal HALL) into my GPS took me to this enormous estate first. It didn’t seem to scream Wordsworth to me, but it was quite impressive! It was built in the 15th century is now a museum/public park/venue and open to the public (free of charge). And, you know how I love free things!

The more I stayed there, the more I was sure this was not Wordsworth’s home. So, I followed my gut and kept exploring. Not 500 feet from the entrance was the Wordsworths’ cottage: Rydal MOUNT! The home was closed to the public, but the grounds were open. Goodness… it was like a fairy tale! You can see by the pictures that I was utterly enamored by the natural beauty. I hope the energy of this place translates.

On to Dove Cottage! Grasmere may be the most beautiful place I've visited in the Lake District (and that is a bold statement because it is all gorgeous). This little hamlet (a group of five or six buildings) is now a museum, and true fashion of my trip, it was closed. But, I explored what I could! Wordsworth bought this property in 1799. They lived here before moving to Rydal Mount where he died. I explored what I could here, but it was empty and it felt wrong staying there long, so I did not. (I have yet to be reprimanded anywhere I’ve visited, and I was not going to break my streak)

It was now time to head to Keswick for dinner! Once parked, I went to the nearby restaurant. I happened to walk in the back, and as quickly as I could, walked right out the front door! It was the most crowded and loudest establishment I’ve visited. It felt like a chain, and my nervous system demanded I leave immediately. So, I walked across the street to a local fish and chips establishment. Most folks order take away, but there were five tables here, so I ate in. It was understated and delicious! Just my speed. And, there was an arcade game to play on my way out!

Back home to my Powter House B&B!

I have been so pleasantly overwhelmed with Keswick that I haven't truly set the scene for my bed and breakfast. So, very similarly to the The Larches Bed and Breakfast in Ledbury, it is remote in a hamlet. The hamlet is called Powter Howe in the village of Thornwaite. The town nearby is Keswick (4.9 miles and 11 minutes away). It is about a 500 feet narrow way from the "main" road to Powter House B&B. Then, you have to open the gate, drive through, and shut behind you because it's a small working farm and the chickens will walk right out!

It wasn't until this day that I realized the back of the building I'm staying in is Heron Cottage!!! Heron energy is my favorite, and every time I see them, it feels like a genuine blessing. When I say my spirit absolutely adores me, I mean it. I could have made a thousand different choices back in April, but I let my gut lead the way every single time, and I haven't stopped yet ;)

When I walked inside Powter House, Karen had a fire going, and a man was reading by the fire. Karen asked about my day and introduced me to Neil. I asked him if it would be okay if I joined him and I promised I would write and not chat him up.

And, then, Karen's ass - out of nowhere - says, "Now, he's spoken for. His wife is upstairs!."

Ummmm... I had to smile at both of them, and I told Karen, "Thank you for that, Karen." And, to Neil, "Safe with me!"

This was my first night by the fire. I never wanted to put Karen out because she works SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO hard all day! But, goodness... writing by the fire after an adventurous day is about as dreamy as it gets. The only thing that would make it better is if Dani was with me at the B&B. One day! :)

I did (innocently) chat up Neil. (Maybe that means something else over here?!?!) Anyway, turns out he's from Scotland, and I was going there tomorrow!!!!! (This really is the trip that keeps on giving. Every single human has played a part in my next step - I'm learning this may be that mindfulness thing folks talk about ;) He shared that the poet Robert Burns is from his his town. AND J.M. Barrie, the author of Peter Pan, played at Moat Brae from ages thirteen to eighteen. So, you know where I decided to head tomorrow!

Time for bed.

Cheers!