Shakespeare's Home

June 6th - my Pawpaw’s birthday

This morning was lovely, as usual. A little writing before breakfast with Inga, puppy pets, chat with Malcolm, and a little more writing before heading out for the day.

This was the day Inga and I bonded over the Brontës; she wrote her thesis on Wurthering Heights! And, Malcom and I broke the wall of not talking about politics. I was sharing how listening to the news here was so much more hopeful than back home. He assured me that the UK is just as flawed, and they’re usually just a few years behind the US’s policies. (This is why he follows US politics so closely).

We were talking about how the US needs to find a strong but electable Democrat quickly. To which I said, “You know who I love?”

He said without skipping a beat, “Bernie Sanders, but y’all can’t elect him.” I was incredibly flattered that he could tell I was a Bernie fan, and sad that he’s right on him never being our president.

He also shared with me that Elizabeth Barrett Browning was from Ledbury (where I'm staying)!!! It's incredible how things just keep aligning without any effort on my part!

Towards the end of breakfast, I told Inga I would be getting home late because I was going to a showing of Hamlet Hail to the Thief at 7:45 in Stratford this evening. This sweet soul said, “Oh, thank you for telling me because we would have been worried. Do make sure you have our number in case you need us!”

Y’all, how sweet is she?!?!?

Off to Stratford I went! I learned my lesson yesterday and made Shakespeare’s birthplace my first stop!

I thought I was being so clever with parking and putting in my earbud to walk with my GPS. (Walking on cobblestones, cane in one hand and phone in the other makes an anxious jaunt because I have to watch the ground as I walk) Well, despite my best efforts, I found myself lost but right in front of Shakespeare’s new place (the only home he ever bought). I took it as a sign that this was where I was meant to be.

The woman who checked me in complimented me on my shirt (Progress not perfection), and then she admired my cane saying she had a duck umbrella. Immediate besties! Well, I said “besties,” and she said “soul sisters.” She kept popping up and being helpful all throughout my stay. All the doors are so old over here, and it seems each one has a different kind of latch or handle. She also helped me with the lift!

I spent most of my time in the gardens. They were mesmerizing. So many flowers I had never seen before. And, the bees!!! I had to keep reminding myself that I had places to be, but the lingering won.

Next was the table chat where I learned the entire history of the building: when it was built, the additions, Shakespeare’s life and death there, his family’s life during and after him, the men who bought it afterwards (more additions, fires, looting, rebuilds, demolitions, and how it was restored). Mind blowing to say the least.

I, then, moseyed on to the exhibits inside. Upstairs was all about Shakespeare’s literary, leading ladies. The costumes were leant by The Royal Shakespeare Company. And, Downstairs was the exhibit on the life and times of Shakespeare. It could not have been a better experience.

Speaking of leading ladies, did y’all know what a badass Anne Hathaway was?!?! She made her own living as a brewer! She owned breweries around town and one in her hometown. In today’s currency, she was making millions each year!

I stayed until they closed (just short of two hours), so I ended up not being able to see Shakespeare’s birth or resting place; although, I did walk past Holy Trinity Church!

Off to the pub I chose: The Dirty Duck! Someone was pulling out just as I pulled up! (I’ve said “Thank You” aloud many times on this trip because things just keep opening up for me) After I walked a bit, I saw a parking warden checking the line of cars. He stopped at mine, so I tried to “run” yelling “Excuse me! Excuse me!" Come to find out, I had parked in a disabled spot and did not put my decal on the dash (they're incredibly kind and are just letting me use my placard from the states). I got there just in the nick of time! He was kind and understanding, and I apologized and thanked him profusely.

A few yards down was The Arden Hotel! Shakespeare’s mum’s maiden name was Arden, and MY mum’s name is Arden! I immediately sent the pictures to Mom, and she sweetly reminded me that she's told me that MANY times. Oooof.

Off again to the pub! Turns out, this pub is well known, on the Avon, and directly across from The Royal Shakespeare Theater! I could not have planned it better if I tried! I got there just before it got busy and sat by the patio. The food and service was lovely.

After The Dirty Duck, I sat by the Avon for about an hour. Swans were everywhere! Folks were rowing, and on the other side of the river was a bustling park. And, guess what I saw? My first black swan!!! It was magical.

On to the theater! I don’t know if I said this earlier, but the night before, I was planning my visit to Stratford and decided to see if any shows were playing. There were TWO seats left for the Hamlet Hail to the Thief, and it felt serendipitous, so I snagged one. Plus, it was only ten pounds! The site kept saying “Radiohead will not be playing at this showing” the closer I got to checkout. I thought it was odd, but I was following my gut. Turns out, it was Hamlet set to a deconstruction of Radiohead’s album!!! What?!?!

From the Playbill:

When Jones suggested the idea to Yorke, he couldn't stop thinking about it. 'That's how I judge things a lot,' says Yorke, tapping his forehead, 'if they stick in here.' He read that Shakespeare would commission leading composers of the day to write songs and he would collaborate with them. 'They weren't just ditties,' Yorke says, 'they were structural parts of his work.' Perhaps the suggestion for this cross-form production is not so radical after all; the creative team are simply responding to an invitation offered 400 years earlier.

Once I got to my seat, I made friends with the gentleman next to me. He was a loner, too, and told me the tickets were so cheap because the REAL opening night is next week! This was only the second showing of it. I was excited by all of this, AND this man reminded me of Anderson Cooper with a British accent.

This is how my trip has been the whole time: little God winks galore.

The play was like nothing I’ve experienced before. There was a glass DJ booth, the singers were on platforms and stood like statues, there was no intermission, and the acting was to die for. I can’t quite put it into words. The setting was intimate (like a blackbox theater but more formal). There was smoke everywhere that set the eerie mood. It was like a concert and a play had a baby; and it was SHAKESPEARE & RADIOHEAD!!!

If you like Shakespeare and/or Radiohead, I HIGHLY recommend seeing it if you get a chance. I cried, giggled, and gasped. There was a standing ovation at the end for every single person involved. Truly phenomenal.

I was on cloud nine on the way home. The energy kept me wide awake and made it difficult to fall asleep. Needless to say, my time in Stratford upon Avon was lovely!

Cheers!